Not a happy r/c owner

[Essexboy]

Well since owning my CT-5 (about 8 weeks) I have to say the thing never went in a straight line. I have had to replace a throttle servo (original stopped working). A front dog bone was bent replaced both of them. Still doesn't run in a straight line!!!
Now I think the clutch has gone. I need to inspect it, but pretty sure it has. I am not impressed with the longivity of some of the components. I haven't even done close to a gallon of fuel in it I have to say, its strange how the clutch shoes are made of teflon (a none stick material)?

All this said, it really is starting to put me off buy anymore cen cars :S

I also have a HPI RS4. single speed. funnily enough cen make the 2 speed conversion for it. But My importer over here doesn't stock it or any components for it. I only need the main shaft, So I am going to have to buy Direct from cen and international post to the UK

[4Running]

Dont expect a response on this message board. I have waited for a month with no repsonse, and I dont even have a complaint just a question.

[vangsoe]

Hello guys

I dont think this is a fair thing to say 4Running - there are almost like 4-8 new post here every day.
It could be due to the fact of the tone of voice in the question from Essexboy.

"Hey you stupid idiots at CEN Forum - i got one of the crappy cars you all love - and it wont run the way i want it to - what to do"

See what i mean ?

If the question had been asked like this:

Hi Guys at CEN Forum
I am absolutely new to this hobby and i have bought a CEN CT-5, but i am having some troubles with the steering geometry. The car wont seem to keep driving in a straight line -could someone advise what i can try" ?

Then i am sure he would have gotten some answers.

Personally i have no experiences with the CT-5, but i would have answered:

Hi Essexboy

Welcome to the Forum. You might want to read up a bit on steering geometry and try to adjust your front- and rear toe-in, camber and caster values . Especially the rear toe-in is very important to any car with regard to keeping a straight forward driving line.

See what i mean guys ?

Happy Newyear anyways

Niels from Denmark

[Essexboy]

Hi Niels,
It has jack shyt to do with steering geometry or the way I think it should run. Try it never centers and when you open it up a liitle way it pulls to one side!!!! I had already checked all the setting
Oh I know lets put an aluminium steering linkage upgrade. My point was you shouldn't need to upgrade parts for it to run as it should!!!
And it wasn't the clutch that had gone, it was the the fly wheel nut had come loose. As you can imagine it was a nightmare trying to get the clutch bell off

[cadpilot]

Hey Essexboy,

First of all, I don't have a CT5 so please forgive my ignorance.

The teflon clutch shoe problem you are seeing might be normal operating procedure. I'm not saying that what you are experiencing is not a problem but teflon shoes have been used for years in RC. My Associated RC10GT used teflon and my dinosaur HPI road car used them too. If I remember right aluminum shoes didn't become big until 1/8th scales. I would have to go to a hobby shop and investigate to see what is standard material for 1/10 scale road cars.

Your pulling problem...I agree that the aluminum steering upgrade shouldn't fix the problem. The original equipment should be good. If you you checked the geometry, I'll take your word for it. With any new RTR, I always check for geometry and remove the servo horn and make sure there is no binding in the steering linkage. The interesting thing here is that you say that your problem is when you hit the throttle.

Personally, my first step would be to check the shocks. My buddy bought an RTR (not CEN) that the assemblers only filled the shock 1/2 way. When he hit the throttle and the weight transfered to the rear, it didn't squat evenly from lft to right causing unequal pressure on the front wheels. Just a thought.

Next, I would look at the drivetrain, the front and rear diffs specifically. when you hit the throttle, all four wheels should pull equally. Granted, on acceleration the weight loads the rear of the car so the front will be lightened and some loss in steering control might occur. But from what you described, that's not the issue. My point being, if the 4 wheels don't pull evenly it's going to pull. Keep in mind too that if the tires loose traction, you'll be all over the place. I'm sure I don't have to tell that.

I also had buddy that had the Associated road car with similar problems. He but a set of foams tires on it and it helped tremendously.

Last but not least, I don't trust any prebuilt RTR from any manufacturer. Not that they might not build it right but no one can build a car as well as I can! LOL. The fact is that someone else built it and everyone makes mistakes. I remember when Associated and Losi started supplying their 1/8th scales RTR. Wow, the die hard racers would completely disassemble to check everything from fluids to making sure all screws were tight. Many guys found problems .

Let us know.

[Dan]

Here's the reason why your CT5 doesn't run straigh OP: you didn't follow the instructions that came with the car. 5mm on the top and 6mm on the bottom, then clean the balljoint on the steering rack, all of them, and lubricate them, all of them again, and make sure that none of the screws is binding.

[captcapo]

I have to agree That the Cen R/C nitro powered trucks r not as strong and reliable as i had hoped (paying over $500 for it); this said i have not had nothing but good things come from my questions here on the forums. Though, this is the first 1/8 scale nitro powered truck i have had, its definitely more prone to breaking. And i have some great Battery R/C vehicles; though i believe the scale also has the alot todo with breakage(the bigger they are the harder they fall) & break